Melbourne to Sydney Road Trip | Part Two

I woke up on the second day of my trip to a very cold morning. The paddock I was in was very open to the elements. I wasted no time simply being cold and got up and on the road. I was headed over the border from Victoria to New South Wales, where I hadn’t been since I was in Sydney in October last year. 

My first stop was a coastal town called Eden. I didn’t know much about it but I’d seen there were museums and scenic lookouts, so I was sold. I had a few hours’ drive to get there and they passed quickly with good music and beautiful green terrain to look out on. The town was very hilly. I parked up outside the Killer Whale Museum, from where you have a stunning view of the ocean. Before heading in, I took a walk down the road for a quick coffee and sat in the sunny courtyard of a cafe off the high street. It was a lovely little suntrap from where I could plan my day and enjoy a warm breath of air. 

The museum itself was very interesting. Knowing little about it, I’d assumed it would be about the whale species, but it was actually historical and told about the town’s whaling past. Prior to European colonisation, the Yuin people of the area built a relationship with the orcas. The killer whales would hunt and strand humpbacks on the beach which would feed the Indigenous people. The orcas would eat the tongue, throat, and lips, and the people would have the rest.

As saddening as I find the concept of whaling, I found this relationship between orca and human fascinating! I find killer whales to be such interesting creatures and I was so glad to develop my understanding of them. 

At the lookout, I enjoyed a gorgeous view of the coast whilst eating lunch that I made out the back of the car. I could see what a lovely vantage it would offer for whale watching at the right time of year.

My next stop was Pambula, where I’d decided I would camp for the night. When I arrived I headed straight to the beach. I was desperate to swim, but the waves were quite rough and there were no life saving services so I just enjoyed the view for a bit before seeking out another spot. Just around the corner was the mouth of the Pambula River. Here there was a relatively strong current, but no waves, and I felt safe diving in, if a little mad, whilst people in puffer jackets looked on!

It was a beautiful swim, I just had to be very aware of the current. I quite enjoyed swimming against it, pushing my body, knowing when to swim towards the shore and rest. I also took a couple of walks in the area, up to different viewpoints. The first was of the beach, and the second the river. I just found everything I saw to be so beautiful and exciting. I felt so fulfilled and grateful to be there. 

I’d picked my campsite for that night based on two factors. One was location – I was making great progress up the coast. Another was the discovery that this one had lots of kangaroos just hanging out. I saw several as I drove up and could barely contain my excitement. I think they are such gorgeous creatures and to see them living their lives happily, uncontained, makes me happy. That evening I watched the sun set over the campsite and turn the grass to gold, the roos bounding around in the glowing light, delighted to be there to see it.

The following morning I ate breakfast on the beach in the morning sunshine, watching the surfers grace the waves. I find surfing so relaxing to watch! From afar, the grit and exertion of it is disguised in elegance and skill.

I drove north to Narooma. There I knew of Australia Rock, a little sight to see on the way up. I got a coffee at Bound to Earth Espresso Bar and chatted to some of the locals before parking up at the beach and enjoying a short but scenic stroll to the rock. Australia Rock is simply a large rock with a whole in it that is very vaguely the shape of the country. It was cool to see, though. The best part, however, and something that was one of the best surprises of my entire trip, was when I decided to take a walk out along the rocks and saw a sign that warned pedestrians to keep a distance from the seals. Excited by the sign, I had no idea just how many seals would be lazing on the rocks! There were so many! Sleeping and fidgeting, rolling about, soaking up the sunshine. I had never seen seals so close – even though I kept a respectful distance. They were remarkable. Their fur slick with salt water, folding themselves over to scratch and wriggle. I sat on the rocks too and just enjoyed their company.

I continued driving up the coast and spent the afternoon in Batemans Bay, another coastal town. I ate lunch and relaxed in my camp chair by a calm patch of ocean until the sky turned and the rain set in. The forecast had been threatening rain for days and I knew Sydney had been wet lately, so I wasn’t surprised. I took cover in a nice coffee shop and used the opportunity to charge my portable charger whilst sipping a chai latte and reading. The rest of the afternoon slipped away and soon I had to think about driving a little further to get to that night’s campsite. 

The rain rose as I drew closer to Green Patch beach campsite in Jervis Bay. In pictures (and I am certain in reality too, on days drier than when I saw it) this beach looks like paradise: white sand, clear waters that reflect the deep blue sky. When I arrived, the world was a downpour. I found my camping spot and decided that despite the heavy rain, I had to get down to the beach. I put on my swimsuit and headed out into the mass of grey outside. Down at the beach, everything was grey – the sky, the sea, the sand. I ran into the water... and it was beautiful. In the rain, it was easy to find the ocean warm. I spent a short while on the beach, totally alone, soaking up the joy of swimming in the rain, utterly delighted to be immersed in water. Then I returned to the campsite for a hot shower and a cosy evening tucked up in the car, listening to rain pounding outside, trying not to worry about the possibility of getting stuck in the mud the following morning.