Hazy Glaciers and Bright Glow Worms | New Zealand Road Trip

After sleeping a night at a campsite in Ross Beach, I drove us the rest of the way to the town of Franz Joseph. 

We were heading to a Jade carving workshop, which we had booked the night before after seeing it recommended online. We found the address, which appeared to be someone’s home, and parked up. On the side of the property was a large workshop and another smaller building with the diamond cutters inside. From the talk we had had on jade in Rotorua, we knew a very small amount about the cutting process. Today we would learn more, in a much more hands on manner. 

There were about seven of us participating in the workshop. Our first task was to select the piece of jade – Pounamu, as it was found in New Zealand – we were going to carve. Our choices were influenced by what we wanted to make. I wanted to make a bracelet with mine, so was advised by * the instructor, to choose a smaller stone than I initially picked up. We were given aprons and plastic goggles and a brief on how to use the diamond cutters (and how not to trim our nails accidentally whilst using them!). And then we were let onto the machines and starting to carve! It was a little easier than I expected it to be. The workshop explanation had said no experience was needed, but I still had some concern that I might find it quite difficult. Instead it was the opposite. It was quite therapeutic, the running water, the rotating blade, the ritual. The hardest part was deciding how far to edit the shape of the stone. I followed the curves in mine to respect its natural design, just tidying up the edges. I never got it exactly straight, but realised before I tried too much that I liked the asymmetry. 

The next stage was to sand the stone with different graded papers. We did a minute with each, keeping the paper wet so as not to scratch the stone. Esme was making a bracelet too, and had to be very gentle as the piece she chose had a fracture in it. * tried to advise her to pick a different piece, but Esme was adamant she wanted to give that one a go. Eve made a beautiful teardrop pendant for a necklace. 

Once our pieces were carved and sanded, they were left in oil for a few minutes. Tiny holes were drilled and threads braided to create the final products. We were so happy with them, especially proud that we had chosen and carved them into our own. We knew we would treasure them, and the fact that we made them together, on this incredible trip.

After a van lunch, it was time to see what the town was known for: the glacier. 

The day was overcast, and a good temperature for walking, although the glacier viewpoint wasn’t too far. When we did reach the viewpoint, we could see the thick clot of ice for about a minute before it was swallowed by cloud. We spoke with a couple that we recognised from last night’s campsite. They said they had been there before, when the glacier was much bigger (and more visible). We took a nice photograph of them before the glacier disappeared entirely, them smiling with it in the background. They repaid us by taking one of us, but oddly with the strange cutout that stood at the viewpoint, a finger over the lens, glacier completely obscured.

That evening, we chose to stay at a campsite near Fox Glacier that offered a free glow worm walk. As budget travellers, the word free is always exciting, and this lived up to it. We met a large group of campers in the dark and were led out of the site, around a corner, down to the mainroad. Then there was a left into woodland. It was difficult to see much at all but we were informed that the walking track was a loop, so just to follow it and we’d all make it back to the start. 

At first we could just about make out shapes in the dark, but as we continued and our eyes adjusted, I started to notice the odd bits of tiny blue light. I pointed this out to the girls. It was the worms! Tiny pinpricks of light dotted throughout the trees. Some were alone, but most were in groups that got bigger as we wandered deeper. Our guide knew where the best groups were, and encouraged us to admire them. They were pretty cool, natural Christmas lights! 

Despite our eyes adjusting somewhat, the track was still difficult to make out in places. At points it fell away at the sides, to ditches or water, and Esme, Eve and I clung to one another to make sure we didn’t fall. The glow worms were bright, but not enough to guide the way!

The following day was possibly the rainiest we had. Keen to still explore Fox Glacier, we put on raincoats, grabbed an umbrella, and headed out onto the wet walking track to view the glacier. It was roughly a forty minute walk to the viewing area, which we filled with upbeat singing to keep spirits high. It felt like we were on a kids’ camp, singing with no care, laughing at the choices. It was the most encouraging way for us to do the walk, and kept us peppy when we reached the viewpoint and could see nothing but cloud. 

Next we were up for an afternoon of driving, and some beautiful sights along the way...