Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove | New Zealand Road Trip

We spent two nights camping next to Hot Water Beach. After our first night there, we woke up early to catch the sunrise on the east facing beach. The sand was cold beneath our feet and we watched quietly as the pastel sky turned vibrant. Golden light pierced through cloud and the sun rose. Esme and I ran into the sea for a beautiful swim in the morning waves. Afterwards, we ran out and into Eve's arms as she held out our towels.

We had to be at Hahei beach by 8.45am, as we had a kayak tour to Cathedral Cove, a beautiful rock formation on a small beach, known as an iconic filming location in the Narnia franchise. We arrived at Hahei to an overcast morning and bright yellow kayaks decorating the sand. We filled out a safety form before our guide conducted the briefing. There were two guides in our group, Andrea who led us, and Hayden, who Eve teamed up with in a double kayak. Esme and I shared one, me in the front and her in the rear. We were taught how to paddle and steer, and how to escape our kayak skirts should we capsize. I tried not to think too much about the latter. We brought the kayaks down to the water's edge and got comfortable, and then Andrea dragged us out onto the water one by one. We bobbed over the waves, and found the wind was against us. It took us some time to find a rhythm. But the sun came out and it was a glorious day.

We had chosen to kayak to Cathedral Cove as the walking path was closed due to flooding; the only way to get there was on water. We also loved the challenge of kayaking over the undulating surface of the ocean. We stopped on route several times, where Andrea would tell us about the area we were in, share some Maori history and legends, and point out different rock formations and wildlife. At stingray bay, we saw the dark bodies of rays ripple through the water below.

We landed on the beach neighbouring Cathedral Cove. The sun sparkled in the water and after Andrea had briefed us and taken our coffee orders, we were free to enjoy the bay. Due to recent rockfall, we had to stay 10 metres from the cliff surrounding the bay. But we could still see the iconic shot through the arch, and we could swim as much as we liked. So of course, Esme and I did. The water was incredibly clear and so refreshing after our journey out there. Meanwhile, Andrea was making coffees, using tools and ingredients they'd brought with them! We loved sipping our oat flat whites and cappuccinos on the sand with a stunning view.

We had thirty minutes on the beach, swimming and admiring, photographing and sipping. When we kayaked out again, we went around the corner to see the cove from the water. And then it was time to head back. Now, we had the wind in our favour, and we were instructed to hold on to each others boats, as we had done previously when we needed to stay in one spot together. Now, we were moving together. We were given a large sail, and I was holding a front corner. We caught the wind with it and began sailing back to shore thanks to it! My arms got a rest from paddling, but my hands were tight with clenching the sail's rope. Andrea and Hayden continued to share facts and stories with us as we made our way back to Hahei.

We were on a high afterwards. It was early afternoon, and we made our way into the town (after Esme and I had run back across the beach once to find our Birkenstocks we'd left in the pocket of our kayak!). We decided to get lunch at a little cafe before we wandered around the exterior of a small gallery.

Our afternoon at the campsite was very relaxed after our busy morning. We did some research about our next destinations and campsites. Booking things as we went along meant we could be flexible and explore intuitively. We made a wholesome dinner and as the sky got dark and the tide lowered, we headed down to the beach.

We'd gotten a shovel from the campsite reception, and listened intently when we were told how to find the hot water, but that was a day prior and we'd forgotten half the instructions. We were digging unsuccessful puddles of lukewarm water until a couple came down the beach with their own shovel and reminded us that we had to go to the other side of the rocks. Once there, we felt the heat of the sand beneath our feet. There was a tiny stream that burned our soles as we walked over it. So, carefully, we began to dig again. We took turns, digging a hole in the sand, trying to widen it and deepen it without it collapsing entirely. It was soon full of warm water. Once it was wide enough for the three of us, we sat around it with our feet immersed, and cracked open the ciders we'd brought down with us. More people appeared on the beach and dug next to us. The night was cool but we were warm under the starry sky.