Markets, Wineglass Bay, and Cataract Gorge | Tasmania Diaries (part three)

Our final days in Tasmania were spent in several different spots.

01.04.2023

Before we got on the road, we spent the morning at Salamanca Markets, after having them come highly recommended from several people in our hostel. These markets are in the centre of Hobart, and even though people had told us of the variety of offerings, we were blown away by the scale. There were so many stalls! With handcrafted jewellery, sweet treats, bric a brac, antiques, soap, clothes, coffee, hot food, fresh produce… The further we walked, the further they appeared to stretch. We had intended to leave Hobart by ten-thirty, but we were still at the market at quarter to eleven, captivated by the jewellery crafted from old spoons, the scent of freshly flipped pancakes, the soothing tones of buskers singing familiar songs. 

When we did get on the road, the car was stuffed with our large rucksacks and overflowing tote bags. We weren’t heading back to Hobart for a couple of days.

I drove us the 200km to Freycinet National Park. We stopped on the way at a beach that was littered with a glorious array of shells. There were clouds, but behind them the sky was bright blue. 

The next time we stopped was when we parked in the carpark of the National Park’s Visitor Centre, where we got out to grab a map and get our first glimpse of the peninsula’s beaches. We went down to Hazards Lookout, where the water was a deep blue that matched the sky. The Hazards – the mountains on the other side of the water – were stunning. Having seen these, we were very excited to head to the Wineglass Bay Lookout.

We parked up in the walking tracks car park and then began the scenic climb. Just minutes into the walk, the views were stunning and it was tempting to stop for a while already. We resisted, though, knowing we had so much more to see. And when we reached the lookout, we saw what we’d been climbing for. 

From the lookout point, we could see the smooth curve of the bay. Kilometres of green trees swept down to the white sandy edge that met the ocean. The sea turned from a turquoise edge to a pool of deep blue where two white boats were stationary. Behind the sand, amidst the greenery, two lagoons poked into view. We just stared. I couldn’t help several tears at one point, as I reflected on everything that had gotten me to this beautiful place. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw Kirsty reach up beneath her glasses with the edge of her t-shirt. We both laughed when I asked: 

“Are you crying too?”

We spent almost an hour admiring the view from the lookout. Some of the time talking and laughing, other moments in silence. 

When we eventually left the viewpoint (with some hesitation) we were filled with a renewed appreciation for our trip. We stopped by a general store for some groceries and walked along a small beach we found next to it, watching as the sun began to set.

We drove to the hostel under a gloriously vibrant sky. We tried to find somewhere to pull over and watch it, but each time we thought we’d found a spot, we ran out of the car to find a closed off path, or trees blocking the view. But even the glimpses we got were stunning. And as Kirsty said in the car, the great thing about sunsets is that they happen every day. If you miss it one night, it’s okay, because the sun will rise again tomorrow.

02.04.2023

My final full day in Tasmania was full of highlights. Having no time pressures, we spent the morning drinking coffee with a view at Felicity’s Antiques. We had a leisurely time sipping oat flat whites, gazing out at the ocean in the sunlight and journaling. This was the most beautiful start to the day.

By the time we got on the road to Launceston, it was the afternoon. The drive was smooth, and finished at Cataract Gorge, a natural formation very close to the city centre. There there are walking tracks, pretty views, a chairlift, a swimming pool, and more. We took the chairlift up, for the experience, and whilst it was pleasant it didn’t feel like anything special. What was special, though, was the large party of wallabies that greeted our arrival. There were loads, just hanging out! One in particular was very friendly, and the staff member who was managing the chairlift gave us some food to offer them. I could see why they were all so keen to chill out there!

After a while watching the wallabies (including some very little ones and a joey in their mum’s pouch!), we took a walk up to Eagles Eyrie lookout. The sign warned ‘steep, no handrails’, but the rocks and trodden dirt formed an easy to follow path. We continued past the lookout in search of more adventure, but ended up getting stuck on the other side of the hill and having to climb up and over again. We walked more, over the suspension bridge and around the rock, and then took a rest by the swimming pool where someone was playing the guitar.

We decided to head to a little lookout in the city to catch some of the sunset, before checking into our hostel. After making dinner with the remnants of our last grocery shop, we went out to another Irish Bar with live music. The musician was talented, and put up well with the drunk hecklers who kept requesting the same song. 

We spent the night at the Pod Inn, Tasmania’s first capsule accommodation. Not for the claustrophobic, these pods are the size of the mattress you sleep on, with enough room to sit up. There was a control panel for the pod’s lighting and locking on the far wall, a mirror, and USB ports. It was actually the best sleep I had in Tasmania.

03.04.2023

On our final day, all we did was go for brunch in Launceston and then drive the two and a half hours back to Hobart airport. We ate at Earthy Eats, which was a beautiful and delicious spot in the centre, with friendly staff. 

When Kirsty dropped me off in the airport's drop off zone, we were talking loudly, making jokes that we’d cultivated over the week. A woman walked past us as we called about to one another, me sorting out my jumble of baggage on the pavement. As she passed, she said: “You guys sound like you’ve had a great trip.” 

She was right.