Perth Highlights | King's Park, Freo and More

A city is as much itself as it is the areas surrounding it. The suburbs surrounding a city that come under its name are just as important to that city’s reputation as its CBD. 

The city of Perth is beautiful: modern skyscrapers partner with older, more stylised buildings, large open squares are visited by regular markets and events, the streets are clean and (often) coated in sunshine. But its neighbouring areas, in particular Fremantle (commonly called Freo), Cottesloe, and Scarborough, have a lot to offer. For the two weeks I was based in Perth, I found a lot of joy in the city, and also when I headed out of the centre. 

Perth

One of my favourite afternoons in Perth was spent at King’s Park. To get there, I caught the Purple Cat bus (one of the free bus services running in the centre), then realised I was heading to the wrong side of the park, and got off and walked back the other direction. I was glad to have gotten off to walk, though, because it meant I was able to walk along Fraser Avenue with a stunning, clear view of the Swan River, stopping as I wanted to admire it. 

I arrived early for the free guided walk. So early in fact, that there was no one else around. I checked in at the information point and spoke to a kind gentleman behind the desk who told me where the guide would be at 1pm, and to help myself to sunscreen. With seven minutes to spare, I took the time to refill my water bottle, top up my sunscreen as suggested, and use the facilities. When I returned to the meeting point, at two minutes to one, I saw my guide in her sunhat and khaki shirt. She waved me over and introduced herself. She asked about me, where I’d come from, and I told her my story. After a couple of minutes we decided that no one else was coming, and a tour for one began.

A few months ago, I might have panicked at the thought of being the only person to turn up to a group event. The pressure on me to be the sole audience, the entire other half of the conversation. But I surprised myself by being happy enough as the only attendee, and enjoyed the hour and a half walk and talk throughout the diverse plants. I learnt an array of interesting facts about some of the (over 3000!) species that were represented. One of my favourite plants was the old man saltbush. Not only does it have an excellent name, but its qualities are used for a variety of effects. These include adding a salty garnish to dishes in fancy restaurants, and helping to guide vehicles down the motorway at night with its natural glow. The biggest takeaway was how fascinatingly the plants have adapted to thrive in largely arid conditions. They are a picture of resilience. 

Freo

I visited Fremantle on my fourth day in Australia. Whilst I’d liked Perth so far, this was the first place I visited where I felt a ‘click’. This was my kind of place. My experience might have been influenced by the fact that it was my first outing with a new friend, and all the excitement that accompanies new friendships and experiences. But Freo is undoubtedly a standout place for me. Arriving at the station in need of caffeine, we followed street maps to the ‘cappuccino strip’ and felt pleasantly at home on the first floor of ‘Good Things’ with iced oat lattes in front of us. The cafe had an independent, hipster vibe; Freo is often referred to as the ‘cool’ part of Perth. 

Suitably caffeinated, we headed to the markets. Inside the market hall we were greeted with stalls of rainbow fruits, the air filled with fresh sweetness. Beyond the fruit and vegetables, there were stores of souvenirs and flowing clothes, stands of fudge and tea. Sellers offered out tasters and there were more scents: vanilla coffee, sweet and salty popcorn, sugary fairy floss. It was a maze of treats and colour. 

Later in the afternoon, we tried out the brewery, which always comes  recommended to people visiting Freo. ‘Little Creatures’ sits overlooking the stunning blue harbour waters and serves beer and pizza (and a lot more). The staff were friendly, the weather a perfect summer’s day, the drinks ice cold.

Cottesloe

Napoleon Street, right next to Cottesloe station, is the perfect street for window shopping. Or, if your pockets weigh a lot more than mine, perhaps some actual shopping too. Even the op shop on this street had some high value price tags marked up in biro! Whilst I didn’t stop for a drink, the array of cafés and bars along the road were varied and inviting.

Both times I went to Cottesloe beach, I was mesmerised by the tranquillity of the water. I’ve heard that it isn’t always like this, but both times I have been lucky to have the most peaceful swims in the clear water. Most recently, I swam out to the shark net which encapsulates a portion of the beach, and paused for a moment on a rock, watching the fish slip by. 

Both visits, I have also been granted glorious views of the sunset – but this isn’t unique to Cottesloe. Being on the west coast, all of Perth’s beaches offer a stunning view, night after night. Whilst the sunset is always beautiful, it is also always different. Every night, before it disappears, the sun burns a different colour. The colours afterwards come in different shapes across the sky. I never tired of it.

Scarborough 

The best day to visit Scarborough beach is a Thursday. When I did, a couple of weeks ago, we spent the afternoon in and out of the sea; heating up on the sand just to cool down again in the water. The waves were ginormous and unpredictable; I still felt them that night as I dropped off to sleep. In one moment, the water was casually at your waist, or even lower, and the next it had consumed you. Several times I resurfaced having lost myself entirely. Occasionally it was frightening, but it was also fun.

The reason to visit on a Thursday is because on those evenings are Scarborough’s Sunset Markets. A DJ, musical performances, and an array of food stalls and more, right by the beach. Wood-fired pizzas, bao buns, arepas, plant-based bakes and more… Umami smells mix with sweet and everything competes for attention. Stalls of clothes, glimmering jewellery, a truck brimming with lollies… There is so much to look at and consider. I was with several friends and we all bought from different food stalls and sat together by the DJ set, facing the ocean. The DJ was joined by a didgeridoo and a bass guitar. Children cartwheeled in front; adults joined in and taught them new tricks. When the sun had set, we were told to applaud – not only for the show we had witnessed in the sky, but also for the local people: the community.

Perth and its surroundings have a lot to offer. Although I’ve said goodbye, I’m confident that I will return to the west coast. For now, though, I’m taking on South Australia.